Ankara is the capital of Turkey.
It sometimes comes as a surprise to foreigners, when they discover that Ankara, rather than Istanbul, is the Turkish capital. But, in 1923, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk moved the capital to a location right in the heart of anatolia, in the hope of forgetting the Ottoman past and getting the new Turkish Republic off to a fresh start. Today, this is where you will find all the foreign embassies and international delegations. It’s not a beautiful city, but it does have its pockets of history, especially around Ulus and the hilltop Citadel (Kale). Parts of the city center are also lively and sophisticated, with some great restaurants and shops.
When they first settled here in c. 1200 BC, the Hittites named Ankara Ankuwah. Later, the site was occupied by the Phrygians, Lydians and Persians. After “untying” the Gordion Knot by slicing through it with his sword, Alexander the Great arrived in Ankara (then Ankyra) in 333 BC; capturing it swiftly, he then pressed on to Cappadocia. As Angora, Ankara eventually became the capital of the Roman province of Galatia, and proceeded to protif from its location on the imperial trade routes.
The year 1402 marked an important date in the city’s history. Having devastated the Ottomans at the Battle of Ankara, Tamerlane imprisoned the Ottoman Sultan Bayezid I in a cage and paraded him around town.
Five hundred years later, with Istanbul still threatened with foreign occupation, Atatürk declared Ankara the capital of the new Turkish Republic on 13 October, 1923. At first the Istanbul embassies refused to recolate to an under-developed town full of mud-plastered homes without water or electricity. But, when they were offered free land, they soon began constructing new buildings. The German and Austrian architects who helped Atatürk dream up the city plan predicted that the population (which was 30,000 at the time) would eventually reach 800,000. Today, it’s roughly 4.5 million.
A quick look at old Ankara
The best place to begin exploring Ankara is the historic Citadel (Hisar/Kale). Now surrounded by sturdy walls, this part of town was first settled in Roman times. On the hillside just outside the walls stands the hugely important Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, while the Rahmi M. Koç Museum is located nearby in the old Çengel Han caravanserai. The courtyard of the colorful Pirinç Hanı is filled with antique shops and cafes.
Although it was only a provincial town until 1923, Ankara began to expand rapidly after it replaced Istanbul as the capital, and many of the monuments from its period are in Ulus, below the Citadel. The former Grand National Assembly building now houses the Museum of the War of Independence. Across from it is a huge statue of Atatürk (Heykel). It was built before Atatürk introduced the Turkish alphabet as part of his reform, so the inscription is in Arabic. Ankara Palas, an elegant mansion which witnessed many events in the early years of the Republic, is also nearby.
Ulus also shelters the remains of the old Roman city, including the Column of Julian, which used to bear a statue of the young Roman Emperor Julian (r. 361-363 AD). Near it are the remains of a Roman bath complex. Beside the Hacı Bayram Veli Mosque, the Temple of Augustus is one of Ankara’s most impressive Roman monuments. Ironically, this polytheistic structure and the neighboring mosque are connected to each other. The temple walls bear Geek and Latin inscriptions, chronicling important events ,n the life of the Emperor Augustus (r. 27 BC-14 AD), as well as details of the imperial expenditure!
Among Ankara’s oldest mosques, the Hacı Bayram Veli Mosque is still one of the city’s most frequently visited sites, even though it lost some of its popularity to the moch larger Kocatepe Mosque in Kızılay in 1987. Known as a patron of the poor and the needy, Hacı Bayram Veli, who also founded the Bayram order of dervishes, died and was buried here in 1430; part of the adjacent temple was reused to provide a madrasa (theological school) for the complex.
Ankara Citadel
Full of cobblestoned streets lined with wooden houses, Ankara’s citadel was originally built 3,000 years ago by the Hittites, although what you see today are remnants of a later citadel built by the Byzantine Emperor Michael III (r. 842-867). From Ak Kale (White Castle) at the top, you get a wonderful view out over Ankara. The area immediately below you is where the famous Roman General Pompey the Great defeated the frightful King Mithridates of Pontus in 65 BC.
The Alaeddin Mosque, near the south gate, is a splendid, 12th-century Seljuk work of art. Also beautiful is the Seljuk Aslanhane Mosque, whose roof is supported with 24 wooden pillars. This is one of the most outstanding buildings in the city. If you go inside, take a look at the exquisite pulpit which dates back to 1209. The mosque’s founder is buried in the garden, in the sole example of a Seljuk tomb in Ankara. The nearby Ahi Elvan Mosque is overshadowed by the Aslanhane, but is still worth a quick look.
The Pirinç Hanı (Copper Bazaar), between these two mosques, was erected in the 18th century to provide accommodation for travelers. Used by the military during the Turkish War of Independence, the building now houses over 40 shops. On Çıkrıkçılar Yokuşu (Hill), near the museum, you will find copper, bric-a-brac, carpets, and antiques for sale.
Nightlife and shopping
As you travel from Ulus to Kızılay, the town center, you will pass through Sıhhiye and see some fine examples of Republican architecture, as well as Gençlik Parkı (Youth Park), the Opera Building, Ankara University, the Hall of Justice and the Hatti Monument, which commemorates the Hattis who lived here before the Hittites. If you continue from Kızılay along Atatürk Boulevard, the Great National Assembly building will appear on your right, and then you will pass assorted embassy buildings and arrive at Kuğulu (Swan) Park. Take the first left here to find Tunalı Hilmi Caddesi, on the far side of the small park. This is one of the city’s most upscale shopping areas. If you’re interested in Turkish handicrafts, drop in on Çeşni on Tunalı Hilmi to see old Ottoman wedding dresses and dowry pieces that have been changed into exquisite decorative objects.
The Karum Shopping Center, between the Hilton and Sheraton Hotels, is a pleasant mall with lots of local and mall with lots of local and international brands. If you leave Karum and head towards Gaziosman pasha, you will reach Arjantin Caddesi, the capital’s most chi-chi restaurant district. Like Bilkent University and its environs, Arjantin Caddesi is one of the city’s main nightlife centers.
If you don’t turn off at Kuğulu Park, but instead climb the steep Cinnah Caddesi, you will come to the 125-meter-high Atakule, which offers a panoramic view of the city. Here you can spend time browsing the shops, or treat yourself to a great meal at the revolving restaurant. “Kule” (Tower) is in posh Çankaya, which also houses the Presidential Mansion.
Aside from the Armada and Karum Shopping Malls, one of the best malls in the city is Ankamall, beside the Akköprü metro station.
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