Büyükada (Prinkipo)
Büyükada is the largest (hence the name “büyük”, meaning “large”, and “ada”, meaning “island”) and most dashing of the islands. The beauty of the streets, the houses, the trees, the flowers and even the cats suck you in immediately. This is a place where mimosas burst into flower in spring and where the blossoming Judas trees invite you to stop and take pictures. Best of all, with motorized vehicles barred from the island, it is the music of clip-clopping horse hoofs that you hear in the background instead of the roar of traffic.
Büyükada was called “Caria” in Byzantine times and it was the place that help out longest during the conquest of Istanbul in 1453. Later its name was changed to Prinkipo. During the 700 years of the Byzantine Empire, Büyükada was famous for its prisons; several important figures were sent into exile here either because of rivalry or because of “Byzantine” dirty tricks. Later, the Russian revolutinary Leon Trotsky lived here in exile from 1929-33, a period he is said to have greatly enjoyed.
In 1861 Sultan Abdülaziz set up the “Adalar Belediyesi”(the Municipality of the Islands), with Büyükada as its administrative center. The island suffered considerable damage in the 1894 earthquake and from fires in the early 20th century. After the 1940s, there was a considerable increase in the number of people buying or renting summer homes on the island. In 1984, it was declared a historic site and was brought under state protection.
Büyükada is a sizeable island where you can rent bikes to get around. A much nicer and lazier! option is to hire one of the horses and carriages that stand waiting near the main square. Most offer fixed tours of the island but if you want something more specific he drivers may be open to negotiation.
This is a place where it pays to go the extra mile. The Monastery of St George (Aya Yorgi) sits near the top of one of the highest hills on the island and as you climb up to visit it you will spot pieces of cloth tied to tree branches, usually by women who are praying for a child. Each year on April 23 (St George’s Day), some people ascend the steep hill on bare feet, so deep is their faith that their prayers will be answered. No matter when you visit, though, the views out towards Istanbul will be magnificent.
Büyükada has always held an important place in Turkish literature and old Turkish movies. Each little street holds another surprise and it is a delight to come face to face with houses in which famous literary figures and politicians have lived. It’s also worth looking out for the Con Pasha and İzzet Pasha mansions, as well as the choicest hotel of a bygone era, the Splendid. Then, there’s the dilapidated Greek Orphanage and Hristo Tepesi (Hill of Christ)…
Dil Burnu (Cape) and Yörük (Nomad) Ali beach are great places to explore. Should you happen upon football legend Lefter Küçükkandonyadis (ex of Fenerbahçe) cycling round the island, then your Büyükada tour will be complete.
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